Everyone wanted a slice of Ellery at Fashion Week. Editors, designer friends and international bloggers queued on the streets before packing into a refurbished warehouse to witness designer Kym Ellery’s Spring Summer 2012/13 collection ‘Delicatessen’.

Perhaps only Kym Ellery can get away with being both referential and respected. There’s no avoiding that this collection wears its inspiration on its sleeve (or in this case, its shoulders) but something feels fresh and more importantly, very wearable. Could it be the pared-back colour palette? Deviating from the brights and prints that dominated the runways, Ellery explored oxblood red, forest and moss green with ivory, black and silver. Worked in suede, linen, silk organza and a dash of glitter tulle, shapes were voluminous with emphasis on the shoulders or softly stream-lined with peplum detailing.

Kym Ellery’s dedicated followers talk about her label in superlatives - favourite, perfect, hypnotically cool - and it’s easy to see why. There’s something in that kick of red suede, sleeveless jacket dress or swathe of molten-like silver. It’s all a bit dress-upy and after you know Kym was inspired by the loss of her childhood teddy-bear (affectionately named ‘Delicatessen’) some of those references fall into place.

Words by Lucinda Burtt Photos by Vanessa Low